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Zurich is in the north-centre of Switzerland about 30km from the German border and with a population of 340,000 is the country's most populous city. Associated with money and all its commercial applications for centuries it is a wealthy, prosperous place where luxury and civic pride are apparent almost everywhere you turn. The reserved, grey bankers however, have been supplanted more recently by a flourishing creative scene and there is no shortage of vibrant bars, cafes and artistic happenings to leaven the serious art of making money. From a scenic vantage point it is an exquisitely beautiful city with its many examples of fine stone architecture snuggled up to the shimmering Lake Zurich and meandering along the Limmat River. A stroll along the quays of both is a wonderful experience and in this very expensive city is one that at least will cost you nothing. The city projects an air of confidence and poise and has created showcase parks, gardens, museums and art galleries to reflect this. A wonderful walking city, Zurich will impress you with its authentic mid-European charm and the way it has capitalised on the beauty of its natural surroundings.
Zurich Hotel Bookings
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Zurich Airport
Zurich Airport, about 11km north-east of the city may be small but is perfectly formed. A modern airport that provides a great introduction to archetypal Swiss efficiency, it has two terminals and clockwork-regular transport into town. Trains depart at least every 15 minutes to Zurich Hauptbahnhof from 0600-2400 (and elsewhere throughout the country) and there's a bus service that will take you to any of 30 city hotels. Taxis are expensive at around Sfr60 for the relatively short trip. All the major car hire companies have desks in the terminal. See EasyCar for the best deals on Rental cars in Munich.
Accommodation
ou can get reasonably priced accommodation in Zurich if you shop around and book ahead. Otherwise, it's easy to be charged steep prices for a room in this already expensive city. Better value hotels can be found in the nearby towns of Baden and Winterthur allowing an easy commute into Zurich proper. If you can afford it however, there are some city hotels that are the epitome of grand European luxury. Travel Explorer recommends HotelClub - The web's best online hotel reservation service for UK travellers.
Sightseeing Highlights
The city sits astride the banks of the Limmat River as it enters Lake Zurich and the picturesque beauty of the confluence of these waters gives the city much of its appeal. The Old Town dating from the 16th century is right on the river mouth and is the best place to start an exploration of Zurich. You can wend your way through narrow alleys and cobbled streets taking in graceful houses and guildhalls, churches, art galleries, fountains and courtyards, pausing to take in coffee and snacks as you join in the city's vibrant café culture. Running parallel to the west bank of the Limmat is Zurich's elegant pedestrian boulevard – Bahnhofstrasse. Underneath it lie the vaults of gold of the most prominent Swiss banks and along it stretch some of the most exclusive boutiques in Europe. In the middle of the strasse is Paradeplatz (Parade Place) one of the iconic places in Switzerland and home to the banking giants UBS and Credit Suisse and also the famous chocolate shop and café, Sprungli. Just north of the platz and towards the river is the Lindenhof, a terrace that was used by the Romans as a customs post from 15 BC. Today it is peaceful oasis in the middle of the city popular for outdoor chess games and affording spectacular views over the Old Town.
The city’s two grand cathedrals with their spires soaring above the city’s rooftops face each other from opposite banks of the river. On the west bank is the 13th century Fraumunster (Church of our Lady). Its graceful, thin blue spire built in 1732 is atop a Gothic nave with the highlight being five stained glass windows created by Mark Chagall in 1970 at the age of 80. They are considered amongst the most beautiful in the world and are complemented by windows made by Augusto Giacometti. The east bank is home to the larger Grossmunster (Great Church), a combination of Gothic and Romanesque styles it dates from the 12th century but most of what you see is from the 15th. Its twin towers are topped by octagonal domes and the choir has windows also by Giacometti. Smaller than the munsters but no less elegant is St Peterhofstatt (St Peter’s Church), the city’s oldest and notable for having the largest clock face on the continent – almost 9m in diameter.
Although instantly associated with its bankers (aka the "Gnomes of Zurich"), the city also has a vibrant association with the arts and culture – being the birthplace of the post WWI Dadaist movement and James Joyce's masterwork Ulysses. The visitor has ready access to a superb collection of art museums including: The Kunsthaus (Museum of Art), renowned as Switzerland’s best, it is home to a rich permanent collection and a revolving series of first-rate temporary exhibitions. The grounds have sculptures by Moore, Rodin and Maillol among others and you will find canvases by a host of the great Europeans including Caneletto, El Greco, Matisse, Van Gogh, Picasso, Chagall, Monet and Cezanne. Swiss art is represented by members of Dadaism, Segantini, Bocklin and the landscape painter Hodler. There are even New World artist’s pieces with a Rothko and some Warhols being the highlight; a more intimate setting is the Foundation Emile G Buhrle Collection in the house of a wealthy late 19th-early 20th century collector. It has a small but intensely beautiful anthology of French Impressionists (Monet, Cezanne, Degas, Van Gogh, Renoir) and also has some exquisite works by Picasso, Rembrandt, and Rubens and 24 sculptures from the Middle Ages. The Kunstmuseum has a selection of European and North American art from the 19th century to today. It has an unusual policy of showing the permanent collection (Giacometti, Bonard, Miro, Magritte, Van Gogh, Mondrian, Kokoschka, Rodin) in summer and temporary collections during the rest of the year. A smaller, private museum of 18th century-present art is the Museum Oskar Reinhart am Stadtgarten with its focus on Austrian, German and Swiss artists such as Blechen, Friedrich and Hodler. When you’ve had your fill of European art head for the Museum Reitberg, (in a grand pair of mansions once occupied by Richard Wagner) that focuses on Asian cultures. See Japanese, Chinese and Indian paintings, Buddhist sculptures from Tibet, Nepal and China and a range of other forms such as Japanese Noh masks and Chinese jade.
To gain an insight into the unique sense of Swiss independence (still not in the EU), understatement (the presidency is rotated annually to prevent any one person dominating) and cultural blend (there are four official languages) visit the Schweizerisches Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum). It is the country’s best showcase for both the broad sweep and minute detail of its evolution and national character. The collection itself is housed in a huge castle-like building directly behind the Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station). Start with the pre-historic displays containing Stone Age artefacts, including the earliest wheels ever found and move on to the large display of Roman clothing and implements. Then take a trip through the ages to see displays of medieval silverware, 14th century drinking vessels, 17th century china, as well as dollhouses, costumes, furniture, wooden sculptures, carved altars and panel paintings. Military buffs will enjoy the exhibits of knightly culture and the history of Swiss warfare from 800-1800 including weapons and armour. To finish it off peruse the most Swiss of all inventions – the art and science of clock making. To see even more timepieces, the Beyer Museum is completely dedicated to the form. See the history of time-keeping unfold from medieval candles to sundials, waterclocks, hourglasses and modern-day watches. (Given that it’s in the basement of a watch store, you can even buy something on the way out). Switzerland has long had a fascination with science and technology and the Technorama is a loving tribute to both. It is divided into eight sections – physics, energy, nature, mechanical music, mathematics, materials, textiles and automation. Highlights are its tin-plate train collection, interactive Youth Laboratory, and an outdoors assembly of steam trains and aeroplanes. Kids (and most adults) will love the Zurich Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum), a small but engaging collection of antique toys gathered from all over Europe in a house in the Old Town.
With its river, lake and snow-capped alps forming a backdrop, Zurich is surrounded by natural beauty and there are many parks, gardens, river walks and lake cruises that the visitor can enjoy particularly during the summer months. On the Limmat’s west bank is the Arboretum, a 19th century park replete with grassed expanses, stands of mature trees all linked by gently curving paths. On the other side of the river, Zurichhorn Park, is home to a wonderful Jean Tinguely sculpture and a Chinese garden. The city’s Botanischer Garten (Botanic Garden) is part of the University of Zurich and laid out on the grounds of what was a private villa. There are over 15,000 specimens including rare plants from tropical New Caledonia and the deserts of Southwest Africa and a wonderfully showcased herbarium. To swim or sunbathe on the lake try Bad Utoquai on the western shore or Bad Mythenquai on the eastern and on the river check out Oberer Letten just north of where the River Sihl meets the Limmat. This is a lively, fun-oriented area where you’ll see volleballers, skateboarders, groups barbecuing or just relaxing on the grass. The city’s Zoologischer Garten (Zoo) is one of Europe’s best and has 2,200 animals including special enclosures for snow leopards, tigers, Indian lions, red pandas and otters and an excellent aquarium and open-air aviary.
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